Ikat,
or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist
dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres prior to
dyeing. The word ikat derives from the Indonesian word mengikat 'to tie'.
Bindings,
which resist dye penetration, are applied to the threads in the desired
patterns and the threads are dyed. Alteration of the bindings and the dyeing of
more than one color produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When all of the
dyeing is finished the bindings are removed and the threads are ready to be
woven into cloth.
The
defining characteristic of ikat is the dyeing of patterns, by means of
bindings, into the threads before cloth construction, the weaving of the
fabric, takes place. Herein lies the difference between ikat and tie-dye. In
tie-dye the fabric is woven first and the resist bindings are then applied to
the fabric which is dyed.
In
warp ikat the patterns are clearly visible in the warp threads on the loom even
before the plain colored weft is introduced to produce the fabric. In weft ikat
it is the weaving or weft thread that carries the dyed patterns which only
appear as the weaving proceeds. In weft ikat the weaving proceeds much slower
than in warp ikat as the passes of the weft must be carefully adjusted to
maintain the clarity of the patterns.
Double
Ikat is a technique in which both warp and the weft are resist-dyed prior to
stringing on the loom. Double ikat is only produced in three countries, India,
Japan and Indonesia. The double ikat of Japan is a type of kasuri. It is woven
in the Okinawa islands where it is called tate-yoko gasuri.The In Indonesia it
is only made in one small Bali Aga village, Tenganan in east Bali. The double
ikat of India predominantly is woven in Gujarat and is called ''patola''.
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